The Valley of Longevity - Vilcabamba, Ecuador

One of the most memorable places we've visited in South America is found in the Andes mountains in Ecuador. Actually more of a pueblito than a true city, Vilcabamba is a truly special kind of place.

Nestled in a valley about 28 miles outside of Loja, Vilcabamba is also known as The Valley of Longevity and The Valley of Perpetual Springtime. It is claimed that there are many residents well into their 100's - up to 120 or 130 years of age. Although we saw many residents who looked like they could have been that old, no one has been able to document this because there is a distinct lack of birth certificates and other official records. But there is no argument about the wonderful climate, healthy diet and almost complete lack of stress. If there is any place where someone could live that long, it could be Vilcabamba.

As an example, in virtually all of Ecuador, even the locals drink bottled water because their infrastructure doesn't provide healthy water. Vilcabamba was the only exception we ran into. Not only were we assured was the water safe to drink, we were told that its combination of minerals was healthy and tasted good to boot! If any place can claim the perfect mix for healthy living, Vilcabamba can.

As an example, in virtually all of Ecuador, even the locals drink bottled water because their infrastructure doesn't provide healthy water. Vilcabamba was the only exception we ran into. Not only were we assured was the water safe to drink, we were told that its combination of minerals was healthy and tasted good to boot! If any place can claim the perfect mix for healthy living, Vilcabamba can.

It is a small town with a relaxed pace of life. It is also famous as a place to unwind and apparently has been since back in the days of the Incas. In fact, it seems as though every other storefront advertises massages, facials or some other spa-like treatment. The beautiful spring-like weather and the virtual lack of pollution or dust - so common in other parts of Ecuador we visited - make relaxation an effortless endeavor. In fact, there didn't seem to be much going on for those who always want to be on the go, so it doesn't take long to slip into the slow, unhurried frame of mind that the locals seem to enjoy. That doesn't mean there is any reason to be bored - quite the contrary. There is hiking, horseback riding, bird watching and many other things to help get you back in touch with nature. Everything just happens at a slower place. It is a town geared toward visitors, but not tourists, if you catch my meaning.

For a couple of nights, we stayed at the Izhcayluma Hotel, a wonderful place run by some German expatriates. One can see why they stayed. While we were there, we hiked, we rode horses, we laid in hammocks, we visited with the residents. We ate wonderful meals in their open air dining room with the fabulous vista of the valley in front of us. But the most incredible sight, and the reason I say it is one of the best cities in South America, was one we saw after dinner one night.

My wife and I both have an interest in astronomy, and knew that on the equator, or just south of it as we were, you can see the familiar constellations of the northern hemisphere, but also the ones from the southern, which would be totally new to us. So we asked a young lady at the desk if there was a nice place to sit and look at the stars - without getting ourselves lost in the mountains in the process. She told us that the view from right next to their pool was actually very good and that she often sat there, away from the lights of the dining room to look at the night sky. We thanked her and followed the very dimly lit path along the little stream that ran off from their pool and sat on some rocks at the edge. We were not prepared for what we saw next.

From the beginning, it was obvious that it was a perfect night for stargazing. As our eyes adjusted to the dark, we saw more and more and more stars. So many, that it was almost overwhelming. And then, we began to notice something odd, almost like high, thin clouds. As our eyes adjusted even more, we realized that we were actually seeing the Milky Way. Sure, we've all heard of it, some of us sometimes think we can faintly see it, but this was clearly and unmistakably the Milky Way. Never in our lives have we seen so many stars, so clearly. The combination of thin mountain air, the perfect climate with no humidity, no dust and no light pollution gave us a view of the heavens we had never seen before and, regrettably, haven't seen since. It will be forever etched on our memory, it had that powerful an effect.

Sadly, we had to leave Vilcabamba after about week; it was probably the most relaxing week of my life. So, if you want to pick the best city to relax in all of South America, when it comes to the back-to-nature activities, calming effect and the sheer relaxation of getting back into touch with the natural world around us, my vote is for Vilcabamba, Ecuador.