Some Things To Do In Bonaire When You Aren't Scuba Diving

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By SOKCGOLD

Bonaire doesn't offer much beyond world class scuba diving.

If you are traveling to the small island of Bonaire, it's most likely because you want to experience some world class scuba diving. But even the most dedicated diver has to come up for air some time.You can spend your non-diving days or the time between dives resting around the pool and mentally planning your next dive. But you may want to get out and about to see what this small island has to offer above sea level.

It can be a bit of a challenge to find ways to fill the time when you aren't diving. So check out this list of things to do above water when you need a break from scuba diving. None of them would justify a trip to the island in and of itself, but there are ways to kill an hour or two while you plan for your next dive.

Although it is in the tropics, Bonaire, is a dry, desert island. Don't come for lush greenery, fantastic beaches or swaying palm trees. An upthrust volcanic island, the coast line is mostly sharp, exposed coral that is very tough on your feet. There are very few sandy beaches to relax on, and the few beaches there are often have dangerous currents that meanĀ  they aren't suitable for swimming. There are other activities available, but they may take a bit of work to find and enjoy.

Some Bonaire Windsurfing Action

Windsurfing

Lac Bay is on the windy east side of the island. The constant breeze is a boon to windsurfers, and the bay offers a sheltered place to enjoy windsurfing. Lessons and rentals are available.

Kayak in the Mangroves

Also located at Lac Bay, there are kayaks available for rental. Some dive centers also rent kayaks on the west side of the island, and it is possible to make the short crossing to the undeveloped, offshore islet of Klein Bonaire.

Washington Slagbaai National Park

The brochures say that this is the place to see the unspoiled, natural beauty of Bonaire, but it's really just a drive through more desert. I guess that beauty really is in the eye of the beholder. This is less park than just an undeveloped portion of the island. After a couple of hours here, you can see why the Spanish considered the island "worthless" and abandoned it. It really is desolate. Unless you are truly enthralled by the desert, cacti and scrub brush, this is a hard one to recommend. After the color, richness and life of the coral reefs, the desolation is a bit much.

There are two routes on very rough dirt roads through the park. There's a "short" route that is about two hours (if you don't stop). Then there is the "long" route, which adds more than an hour to the trip. Be aware that both routes are one way - once you start, there is no turning back. Before you start out, make sure to have a full tank of gas and plenty of water or snacks, because there isn't anything available along the way. If you do end up going, I would recommend the short route.

Hiking and other activities are advertised, but when we visited on an early May afternoon the temperature was nearly 100 degrees, with no shade in sight. Unless you are a real desert fanatic - which we aren't - this can turn into a long half-day excursion, and at the end you may feel disappointed as though you've seen or done much.

Solar Salt Works

On the coast near the southern tip of the island, the Salt Works is more just a sight to see as you drive by rather than an activity. And since many great dive sites are on the coast next to the Works, you are going to see them without much effort. In fact, you can't miss them. Large flat areas are filled with seawater, which is then evaporated by the sun, leaving the salt behind. It is pretty fascinating watching large construction equipment harvesting up to 2,000 tons per hour of the end product and putting it into huge piles to be shipped around the world. This is good for a few minutes diversion on your way to somewhere else.

Downtown Kralendijk

Don't come for the shopping. Kralendijk is a quaint little city, bit isn't geared toward power shoppers. There are the basics here, along with a few places you can pick up some souvenirs. However, there are some really great restaurants here, so are probably going to spend a bit of time around downtown. You can pretty much walk from end to end of the downtown strip in about five minutes, unless you really take your time. Then it might take you ten minutes.

Donkey Sanctuary

When the Spanish arrived hundreds of years ago, they brought donkeys and other animals with them. Able to survive with little water and by eating the scrub vegetation of the desert, the donkeys are still here. Unfortunately, human encroachment means they don't thrive like they once did. They are involved in numerous accidents (mostly the fault of careless - or drunk - drivers), and are viewed as pests. The government would like to exterminate them. Private efforts have created a sanctuary for them where visitors can learn about their plight and buy bags of donkey food to feed the ones out in a drive through viewing area. You can spend a couple of hours here. If you really like donkeys.

Look for Flamingos

Please note that this section isn't entitled See Flamingos. Flamingos are timid birds, and they are well protected from tourists. Many reports and travel guides say that the island is home to the largest flock of flamingos in the Caribbean, but they aren't accessible to tourists and you probably aren't going to see more than a few at a time. Reports say that the flocks number from 10,000 to 15,000 during the nesting season, but we only spotted a few dozen, and that only from a long distance. The easiest place to catch glimpses is near the Solar Salt Works at the southern end of the island. Goto Meer, a lake near Washington Slagbaai is located in the north. While more picturesque, it is also on a one way stretch of island road, so there is a longer time commitment, without much more success. But you can get to Goto Meer without entering the park, so at least you don't have to add on the extra hours driving through the desert.

In Bonaire, scuba is king. But there are a few other things to do. In attempts to draw visitors who aren't divers, other activities like mountain biking, scooter rentals and horseback riding are trying to be developed, but they certainly aren't thriving. The real draw is the reefs. So, venture out and see what there is to see, or be like us and relax until it's time for your next dive.

A few flamingos at Goto Meer.
A few flamingos at Goto Meer.

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